We t is the cardiovascular system out of Poultry. Konya, an area from a million souls, leg squats smack in the center of Anatolia’s nuts basic, surrounded by unlock, limitless prairie. Turkey’s extremely culturally old-fashioned urban area, Konya looks in the beginning becoming an area from rigorous headscarves and foreboding beards, off ostentatiously seen pieties and you may forbidden beers. However, discovering Konya is not difficult – to own right here, in the centre of your dated urban area, in his tomb away from turquoise ceramic tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is one of the earth’s extremely realize poets. While in the his lifetime, and because their passing within the 1273, pilgrims came to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb was Turkey’s 2nd most-decided to go to traffic destination after the Topkapi Castle when you look at the Istanbul. Rumi was a mystical, a Sufi saint who cherished most of the religions, and whoever own religion try like. His supporters create (nevertheless manage) treat by themselves during the hypnotic trance and you may dancing, possibly rotating for example passes all day long.
You will find a giant, epic the latest municipal auditorium in which this delicate spinning peoples dancing is performed, and you can people amount of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics inside carpet shop, cafes and you can medieval bazaars, the happier so you’re able to invite you to a personal zikhr
These spinning dervishes are actually the fresh symbol away from Turkey’s tourism ways, and drink beverage in your Istanbul lodge reception seeing specific poor bloke in a taller beige considered cap spinning for their amusement. With the real thing, even if, started heree in order to Konya and you arrive at Turkey’s spirit. Within the Rumi’s terms and conditions:
“Whoever you will be, started Even if you is A keen infidel, an effective pagan, otherwise good fireworshipper, come Our very own brotherhood is not certainly one of depression However have broken The vows from mГёte SГёr -afrikansk kvinner repentance a hundred minutes, been.”
Every year because the 1983, I have been future toward two mil-or-thus people just who check out Konya a year. Most are Turkish, many Iranians (just who claim Rumi because their very own, because the guy wrote inside their code and grew up in eastern Persia) and improve pilgrimage.
In the place of and then make Konya a halt towards the a coach trip, I would suggest existence for most days, soaking-up the feeling, food a number of Turkey’s greatest lamb, seeing its top Seljuk frameworks and you may – perhaps – losing crazy about Rumi. You can fly inside the affordably away from Istanbul, from which there is an effective scruffy, atmospheric teach, or are available by road. Konya is in effortless arrived at of the cavern dwellers and you may carpet providers from Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived here because the a good boy, whenever Konya had started a region for two,000 many years. It was oriented by the Hittites, have been succeeded by the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the latest kings away from Pergamon and also the Romans, which known as lay Iconium. New orleans saints Paul and you can Barnabus both preached right here, however, by the 1071 brand new Seljuks, an excellent Turcoman group, were responsible, and their structural history endures.
The Karatay Medrese regarding 1251 are a work of art regarding embellished tiling and you will harmonious domes. It’s now the fresh Museum from Tiles and you will Ceramics, whose content keep up with the vibrancy and you can punch they’d when basic fired. Nearby, the newest Ince Minarali Medrese happens to be new Art gallery regarding Brick and you can Timber Sculpture, that’s much less inactive than You will find managed to get sound. These two structures whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and the eye-popping Sahip Ata mosque: instead of most of the brand new Muslim industry, from inside the Turkey you are encouraged to see mosques, whatever the spiritual tastes.
Within junction of your own dated area and its particular unappealing brand new neighbour ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, this new city’s vantage part, whose gorgeous dark pulpit and you will delicate prayer-niche are from 1155 (the newest advanced try finished in 1221). The new boulevard radiating from this point will bring you to Rumi’s tomb, at which a lot more later on. Rumi is known to Turks just like the Mevlana (the Sainted You to definitely), and today Konya is during thrall so you’re able to Mevlanamania.
Once i basic appeared, Mevlana’s followers, the new Mevlevi, was a blocked organisation, accepted simply for its “folkloric dance” and you will whirlings. Meetings happened privately, illegally.
I mentioned dining, too. Konya’s mutton-centric food is superb. Etli ekmek was a long, slim roll-upwards pizza pie spread having delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab was a mutton shank, really reduced roasted and you may supported for the a cushion regarding cash that have a sweet yellow onion. Ideal is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whose soups and you can do-it-yourself yoghurt is actually heaven-made.
Ergo, superbly given, with of several glasses of nice tannic teas in you, build your way to Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, brand new curious and also the fervent. A strange twinkly white performs into the tombs from Rumi and you can their followers. The new structure is actually embroidered with calligraphy, and the ceilings try a kaleidoscope from wonderfully done arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered into the significantly embroidered cloth away from silver, and seems to glow white and you may serenity and compassion.
Are went, to own listed here is love
The the other pilgrims often discover Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Extremely take photos, although this is strictly forbidden. There are people who cry silently, and people who laugh out loud; people who reflect throughout the day, and those who hurry using.
To tackle on the side and you will insinuating itself in the awareness is the ney, an excellent reed flute. It may sound eg breathy air, but is actually the voice off flame, and this goes up and you will drops inside all of us. This is not specific sullen spiritual worrying, but the voice regarding yearning, of communion, of the center. You may have it – it’s heart songs, plus it extremely sends you. So been.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies to help you Konya via Istanbul from Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul so you’re able to Konya from the train can cost you throughout ?24 return, or just around ?thirty-six return because of the bus. Resort Balikcilar enjoys room or around ?70 (and possess serves cold beers). Lodge Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) bedroom around ?20. Passes observe new whirling dervishes was free from the fresh site visitors place of work, about Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum in the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) organizes individual whirling and zikhr out of ?30pp.